Cuba touring

It has been a wonderful week. We are on the way back home from a couple days on the southern coast. We went to Cienfuegos, a charming seaside town that has varied architecture and a chamber concert that was very pleasant. We ended up at the foot of rainforest mountains where we transferred to old Russian trucks that carried us up to our basic but pleasant hotel.

The next day was Trinidad where I thought I would go wild with taking photographs, cowboys, carts, charming colored houses, tiled roofs and more. Spanish but Carribean too so it was a pleasant day. Jacquie and I passed a portion of the afternoon sipping dacquiris and watching a pig roasting on a spit. The guy doing turning duty when we came in later became the guitar player.

The music is everywhere, not just for tourists. I went to nightclub the other night and it was packed with Cubans having a ball. The act was a fourteen piece band whose lead performer had everyone wrapped around her finger, Music drifts from homes, bars and ties the air together in a pretty impressive way.

We walked through coffee plantations today and on a nature walk with a guy who was so egotistical he reminded me of some “patriot” from Idaho. Amusing and half of what he said was probably true. Nice to walk in the woods. Don’t think I’ll be doing that in Maine any time soon.

It’s a beautiful country even though this is dry season. We have seen beaches (no one on them) mountains and lots of farm land in between Between the “superhighway” and the towns are thatched roof houses and tidy farmyards with the family dog, chickens and flapping laundry. The people often have carts that they travel in - lots yesterday which was SUnday. There are cowboys in the coffee woods and on the plains. It’s nice to see. 

Everyone has been polite and interested that we are americans. There hasn’t been any animosity. There is  a flow of small change for tips and drinks and such. I get it though so I don’t resent it. This is a poor country. How the government provides, housing, medical care infrastructure and basic living standards is beyond me. I don’t see how it is sustainable and both fear and welcome an end to the embargo that will do so much for this country.

Internet has been superslow or non existent. So I haven’t been writing much because it just has not been possible.  I feel wiser for this trip, certainly a better perspective on Cuba. I would come back most certainly.

I have been hearing little news, not watching any television whatsoever and am currently planning whether tonight will be a jazz bar, night club act, or Hemingway’s bar. There is no end to the choices. Life is good!

Salud la bien vida!

Cuba of dreams

Well, It’s Official. I am loving Cuba.

We have been on the go go go since we came with all sorts of government sanctioned events but for the most part they have been really informative and entertaining as well. We visited a community center, senior clinic, literacy museum, children’s theater project and all the usual suspects and have had a pretty nice interaction with the Cuban people. I am aware of the propaganda, it is everywhere but it is not being crammed down our throats and in between the sights and sounds describe a fascinating country. It is not without its problems but there are some good ideas here of how to support your fellow man on a daily basis. That being said, I don’t thing these systems will work in the United States.

We have a mixed group from Alaskan bush pilots to the ambassador of Djabuti who knows of family friend, Jodie Lewinsohn. Most are very well traveled and we are all  swapping travel stories. It is a group of 16 from Alaska, California, Wisconsin and North Carolina.

The weather has been beautiful, breezes blowing from Havana Bay, bold sun. THe hotel pool is too cold but makes a nice backdrop for the 1/2 hour we have at the end of the day. 

There are the famous old cars everywhere, delightful bulbous affairs of chrome and addendum. They are taxis, private cars, mini buses and everywhere. There are Russian cars and Kias and various other makes from the 80’s and 90’s but only old American models. THe streets are wide and not particularly crowded. Driving is fast and loud, signaling pedestrians and stray dogs to scurry. The streets are surprisingly clean and today it dawned on me that the reason there is not a lot of trash is because there is not a lot of packaging -or purchasing. Bags were for sale in the market yesterday and most people have their own reusable sacks with them. 

The houses are wonderful, old colonial marble and cement affairs that symbolize other eras of prosperity. IT isn’t here now. Post revolution, post exodus the government the government gave the empty houses, of which there were many to the poor who had no homes. A nice move except that now the homes need care and repair and there is no money to pay for that. So these fabulous facades hide crumbling courtyards, stairs with no banisters and some broken windows. Makes for a romantic look if not a very practical one. I have been taking pictures. I will attach a few in here but you will have to wait till my return for the album.

 

Food has been better than expected, mostly overcooked and not particularly creative. We have Mahi mahi, roast pork, and classic dishes like ropas viejas which is a shredded beef. Yesterday’s lunch was some excellent rice and beans, roast chicken, bananas and such. Salads are hard to come by. At the market there is not a lot of variety, everything “organic” mostly because pesticides raise the cost. The wine lists are surprisingly good. Most imports seem to be from Spain and Chile at reasonable prices. I had a nice albarino last night for 25 (we shared!) 

Caught a Tropicana kind of show last night at the hotel although some people went to the Tropicana. It was pretty awesome for it’s 5$ entrance fee. Two hours long, lots of acts, some appropriately cheesy but great entertainment.

  We’re going out tonight to a salsa place and to a famous paladar that was written up in the NY TImes called La Guarida. I can’t google it but you can.

We head out tomorrow to Trinidad and I don’t know what the email thing is going to be. Vamos a ver. In the meantime I will try to start a Picasa album. I am going down to the lobby where everyone sits around attempting to get a smooth internet connection.

There is music everywhere. At every lunch there is a live band. At breakfast we have either a band or today it was a string quartet. Granted they want to sell you their CD but you don’t have to.  A Cuban couple got up and started dancing today when we were at lunch. They were quite good. I think drinks will be fun at the Casa de la Musica tonight.

It’s a complicated country. Lots of history, lots of stories, lots of secrets and a feast for the eyes and mind.

Love love love